Monday 18 July 2011

Pemba - Take 2

Now this is more like it.

I've noted before in this blog (and, indeed, in life generally) that sometimes you get things wrong. Yes, even me. So it was that our decision not to stay at the Pemba Dive and Bushcamp on our initial visit to Pemba has proven to be a poor call on our part. Had Jen and I stayed here pre-Ibo as well as post-Ibo, not only would we be in possession of a much higher proportion of our personal belongings, but we would have been able to enjoy the tranquil surrounds, beachfront bar, stunning food and superb hospitality of this wonderful place for more than just the couple of days.

Already feeling supremely contented after our magical few days on and around Ibo, our evening arrival at the bushcamp was greeted with two immediate mood-enhancers - a secure double room (even better than the twin bush hut we'd requested) and a red meat feast the likes of which we'd not had for a long, long time.

With just days of our odyssey remaining, we were well past the point of wanting to make plans or sight see and instead were all about the relaxation, which is predominantly what we've done here. On our last day today we did have one - rather naive - hope, which was to make a third and final attempt to get a copy of our police report from the World's Finest Police Department (TM). Inevitably, that didn't happen, firstly for the previously stated reasons of "secrecy" and then secondly because it had been moved from one department to another and the man with the key was out of town. They promised that if we came back "tomorrow" we'd definitely, absolutely, positively get a copy of the report. They'd said that the previous two times as well. It was irrelevant, of course - we are flying out to Johannesburg in a matter of hours, and I'd bet whatever you liked that if we did show up tomorrow we'd leave with exactly as many copies as we have on any previous occasion.

But meh, this place is way, way too nice to be worrying about small negatives like that. Owners Rudi and Brenda, and onsite manager Lynn could not be more helpful, while their chef is some kind of genius. Ok, he keeps it simple - get lots of meat, perfectly cook lots of meat, serve lots of meat - but it's just an epic win all round. I've managed to lose something like 15kg over the course of this trip, but I reckon I've put at least half that back on in the past three days. All while watching the sunset over the water, or drinking beer by the campfire, or just generally being in a state of uber-relaxed bliss.

So here we are, Jen and I, ready to fly to Jo'Burg for our final stop but sad to be leaving so soon. Our lack of a camera charger means we're saving the battery for a planned trip to Soweto, and have no photos of this place, so you'll just have to take our word for it.

Pemba Dive and Bushcamp, the perfect end to our Mozambican chapter.

Things Jennie will remember:

1) Playing chess with Sean in the big games room (and beating him on the last occasion!)
2) Reading Purple Hibiscus on the private beach
3) Meeting Anita and Ven again (who we'd first bumped into on Ibo)
4) Amarula
5) Our final fresh coconut
6) The generosity of Rudi and Brenda. They didn't have to care as much as they did. But they did. And we thank them for it.

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